Monday, November 3, 2008

Fuck This Shit

I got a text message from one of my favorite sales people today. He is one of my favorite for the simple reason that his wines are better than most, by far. He was just in the store tasting me on wine last week and they were the best wines I have seen in months. But today instead of just sending me a note telling me of exciting arrivals or better yet his personal favorites, wines he's know for years, estates he's visited again and again, he sent be a brief synopsis of The Wine Advocate's review for one of his Barolos.

Et Tu Michael? This was made all the more unpleasant by the fact that it was my day off and I was in a dark room meditating on the Buddha, as I do every Monday. My prompt reply was that perhaps he should fuck Robert Parker,"and I don't mean that gentle boy-love of two Cubscouts on their first camping trip, but the punishing sex of a prison shower."

He replied that perhaps I was bitter, and that may be, but I've never been called an asshole, not in New York. So I went about my day. When I got home I started to make a stir fry of broccolini, red pepper and shrimp with little thai peppers that I grow right here in the Brickhouse. I have a beautiful bottle of Breton Bourgeuil, but that's not quite right for this particular application. So I dug around in the 'fridge and pulled out a free sample that was given to me in the spirit of kindness and commerce. In that spirit I'm not going to reveal it's name because, Jesus what's the point, swing a dead cat, hit a bottle of shitty wine or some other glorified piece of mediocrity in this world. My point, hopefully is more profound.

That point is this, as I drink this wine I realize that I could write a perfectly relevant, seemingly critical review that nonetheless avoided the fact that the wine just tastes bad.

To Wit;

"This inexpensive little wine delivers Sauvignon Blanc character clearly rooted in the New Zealand style. Pronounced herbaceousnecss up front, rests on dramatic tropical fruit and vibrant acidity. Best with seafood, especially shellfish."-Jim Morrison

Here's another review I found on line of the same wine.

"A refreshing, crisp white that has very good Sauvignon Blanc character. Solid fruit flavours (green apple, citrus and a hint of tropical) with good acidity make it a versatile white for grilled fish and seafood. "

And Finally Parker's whore

"Its not often that we get so excited over a $10 white wine, but this stuff is so good for so little, we really love it. All the flavor and complexity that you would want (gooseberry, minerals, grapefruit, sour apple tang) in a $17+ Sauvignon Blanc for a lot less. A wonderful aperitif, or perfect seafood and salads.

Wine Advocate No notes. Score: 85. —Jay Miller, June 2007. "


Once more, this time with feeling,


This is definitely Sauvignon Blanc, or more accurately someone's idea of Sauvignon Blanc. It has all the elements of Sauvignon Blanc, but those elements are poorly integrated, they rattle around inside the wine like a bunch of doorknobs in a pillowcase. Reminds me of a dinner salad from the 1970's, big hunks of iceberg lettuce and tomatoes that seem to have nothing to do with each other, you technically have a salad, so there is no point arguing with the waiter.

This is a wine of plausible deniability, there is nothing you can point to and complain about, grapefruit, grass, a little tropical fruit, it must be Sauvignon Blanc, and only $10 what a deal. Except it vaguely reminds me of windshield wiper fluid, a combination of soap and a solvent that won't freeze. Has it come to this? Do we continue to embrace the poor shadow of greatness just so that everyone can buy it for $10 ?

Jay Miller are you really "excited"? Do you really "really love it"? Seriously? Just be honest with me. Presumably you've had Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, with that in mind, still excited? Or is it just really great to have another value oriented, volumetric brand, complete with adorable icon, in the portfolio of one of the biggest fine wine importers?

Fuck you for helping to ruin something I love, fuck you for diminishing the world by degrees, for lowering everyone's expectations, for turning the world of wine into a room full of slack-jawed fools blathering over the considered attributes of wines with Doggies, and Horses, and Birds and Bicycles on the labels, wines from fucking nowhere.
-Jim Morrison November 2008

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9 Comments:

Blogger Loree Bourgoin said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

November 4, 2008 at 11:15 AM  
Blogger Loree Bourgoin said...

You have me grinning from ear to ear... how about quality, integrity and truth...?

November 4, 2008 at 11:42 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

okay, i read it... and liked it, despite the fowl language and abundant hostility. well put, and too true...

November 5, 2008 at 5:03 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I don't remember the last time I drank windshield washer fluid. Probably because I got inebriated on the antifreeze at the same time.

November 5, 2008 at 5:03 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Here's my feedback:

1. I'm glad I wasn't that salesperson.

2. I'm glad that wasn't my SB since I never left you with a SB sample to take home.

3. Turn off your cellphone when you're meditating.

4. Fuckin pottymouth!

5. Loved your "rant" against the rating gurus. Tanzer's the only one I might take seriously.

November 5, 2008 at 5:04 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

doorknobs in a pillowcase. damn, that is good. i wish i'd written it myself.

November 5, 2008 at 5:07 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

How's the angry wine life? My mom was here for dinner last night. Not a good wine person. The wines they bring are usually mediocre but she was proud of her pick last night because Parker gave it a high rating on the card at the wine store. Told her I had a friend who might just kill her.
-Jonathan

November 9, 2008 at 7:11 AM  
Blogger jim morrison said...

Angry wine life? Man, you had me in hysterics with that one. You know I write nice pieces about how I love Rioja and Sherry and no one cares. Threaten to kill or prison rape one wine critic and that is all anyone remembers.

November 9, 2008 at 7:12 AM  
Blogger Loree Bourgoin said...

Remember I told you I forgot I had an extra thought... Well, then I just remember...this particular blog brings to mind some passages in Pirsig's book, Zen & the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance...

I leave you with this passage, "I like the word "gumption" because it's so homely and so forlorn and so out of style it looks as if it needs a friend and isn't likely to reject anyone who comes along. It's an old Scottish word, once used a lot by pioneers, but which, like "kin," seems to have all but dropped out of use. I like it also because it describes exactly what happens to someone who connects with Quality. He gets filled with gumption."

With wide-eyed seriousness, in this I'm seeing you fight to keep with the gumption...

December 16, 2008 at 12:52 PM  

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